At one time, a meal at the shopping mall meant a pretzel. But now there are family restaurants and casual trendy restaurants and upscale concept restaurants.
The Melting Pot
WHERE: Crossgates Mall. Phone 862-1292.
WHEN: 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays to Thursday, 4 to 11 p.m. Saturdays and noon to 9 p.m. Sundays.
HOW MUCH: $115.93
MORE INFO: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover. Wheelchair accessible. Reservation recommended. No children’s menu.
It puzzles me that these fairly expensive places are wildly popular. Companion Virginia shared a meal with me at the Melting Pot restaurant in Crossgates Mall and was completely entranced. I was not. I didn’t buy into the concept. But that shouldn’t deter you because the food tasted good, and lots of people like it. In fact, the restaurant was busy that night and owner Michael Stygles said they’re doing very well.
So I present this review to you in a format that offers two perspectives. She liked it/I wasn’t prepared for it.
When the Melting Pot restaurant in Crossgates Mall opened in July I thought, what’s the big deal about fondue? Didn’t we do that in the 1970s? Like bell-bottomed pants, the fondue pot is back.
We arrived a bit late but the hostesses were delighted to see us anyway. We were led through a labyrinthine corridor to an intimate booth. They do this very well; if you want a cozy, romantic venue, then this is the place for you.
Place your order
This is how you order: you can get a three- or four-course meal for two or you can order a la carte. We got the most basic four-course meal: cheese fondue to start, a salad, an entree fondue, and a dessert fondue for $79. It sounds like a lot, but to be fair, four courses at other places would be at least as much.
First comes the cheese fondue. It is assembled on the state-of-the-art cooker at your table by the server, who has arrived with fondue fixings and stuff to dip.
“First we put in the base,” she said, pouring the amber liquid into the chubby aluminum pot. It soon came to a boil and she added grated cheddar cheese, stirring well after each addition, as the cookbooks would say. Once it was all integrated, a few shakes of Worcestershire and some black pepper were added and we were ready to go.
You get several kinds of soft fresh bread and ramekins of vegetables and apple chunks. The cheese was smooth and thick and tangy, and coated the stuff admirably, but here’s a heads-up, especially if you’re on a date: Cut your dippers into smaller pieces before you dunk. Eating fondue can be fun/sloppy.
There’s no arguing that melted cheese is good stuff, and the cheddar we had was out of this world/loaded with fat and calories. The Melting Pot positions itself as a special occasion restaurant, and perhaps you should only have it once or twice a year.
Our salads were excellent, but we suggest you get the dressing on the side. The house honey mustard is very sweet. My green salad was generous and the ingredients were fresh and delicious.
Virginia noted that entrees start at $18, including that nice salad, and it would make a satisfying meal at a reasonable price. But that’s not why you’re there.
Our next fondue pot was carried to the table in a metal holder with a vise that looked like a medieval torture device. The liquid came to a vigorous boil, and soon our server arrived with another tray. Again, she began to “cook,” explaining as she went. “First I add fourteen ounces of red wine,” she began, pouring it from a carafe. “Then the seasonings,” dumping in chopped scallions and mushrooms.
Many words
Then came a long narrative about how to cook the meat and some safety tips about cross-contamination. This was instructive/endless. You’re also spending a great deal of date night with the server, which is entertaining/annoying.
The chunks of meat are arranged to advantage on a big white platter and seasoned nicely. You have to spear them and set them in the pot to cook. Don’t touch that raw chicken. Often, the meat sinks off into oblivion. At Melting Pot, you get to/have to cook your own dinner. Virginia was having a terrific time.
We liked the seasoning on the meat and all the little dishes of flavor-packed dips. The quality of the meat and fish was excellent, and I loved the apple flavor of the pork. If you want to bring home the leftovers, be sure to cook everything up, which is leisurely/takes forever. What exactly do they do in the kitchen?
The answer to that question, according to owner Stygles, is prep. There is no chef, and everything is assembled for the servers. They collect it and go.
After more than two hours, the dessert fondue was being assembled and flambéed and I was begging the server to run my credit card. I regret rushing Virginia through the cookies and cream fondue, which was rich/gloppy with marshmallow creme. We dunked the precisely arranged fruits and sweets into the heavenly/too sweet stuff. My cheesecake fell apart. “You were supposed to pour the fondue over,” Virginia chided me. Wasn’t I paying attention?
Two objections
There are two objections people have if they don’t enjoy The Melting Pot, Stygles said. They want their food prepared by a chef, and they don’t want to sit so long for dinner. That’s me.
But Virginia had a delightful time and loved everything, even though she had to spend the evening listening to me. My friend Barb also enjoyed her visit very much, saying, “I knew what it was going to cost, and I knew I was going to cook my food.” Good point.
Service was consistently attentive, and the booths are roomy and comfortable. The place is relaxing and attractive. The tab came to $115.93, including a lemonade, a five-dollar cooking style upgrade and two cups of decaf.
So if you think the fondue thing is fun, and want to spend an entertaining and pleasant evening over it, then by all means go and have a good time.
