I am always amused by the way cooks of different nations can conceive what is ostensibly the same dish yet render it differently. The most famous rice dish in Italy, to choose one example, is risotto, which is creamy, almost saucelike, as opposed to the French interpretation, in which the grains of rice must remain separate or “stand apart,” as some books phrase it.
Perhaps the most interesting difference between the cooking techniques of Italy and France, however, is in the preparation of omelets. The word omelet is basic French while the Italians call their version a frittata.
The French omelet is made with beaten eggs cooked as quickly as possible over very high heat. The result is then rolled and folded quickly and shaped with pointed ends. The center of a perfect omelet is creamy and slightly runny. The Italian frittata is generally cooked over low heat in a leisurely manner so it remains flat and round. When ready it is relatively firm but tender to the bite.
Fillings for a French omelet are rarely complicated and are often made with a single flavoring, like tarragon or fines herbes. A frittata may be composed of many things, as in the recipe here, which uses peppers, onion, ham and cheese.
It is not essential to serve a side dish with a frittata, but I suggest pairing it with potato salad.
FRITTATA
1 sweet red pepper, about 1/4 pound
1 sweet green pepper, about 1/4 pound
1 red onion, about 1/4 pound
1/2 pound cooked ham, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 pound Gruyere or Swiss cheese, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
10 eggs
Salt to taste if desired
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
Cut the peppers in half, remove the inner veins and cut them into 1/2-inch cubes. There should be about 1 1/2 cups of each. Set aside.
Peel the onion and cut it into 1/4-inch cubes. There should be about 1 1/ 4 cups; set aside. Cut the ham into 1/2-inch cubes; set aside. Cut the cheese into 1/4-inch cubes; set aside. Break the eggs into a bowl. Add salt and pepper.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet and add the peppers. Cook, stirring often, about 3 minutes and add the onion, salt and pepper. Cook about 2 minutes and cover. Continue cooking about 1 minute. Uncover and cook until the liquid from the vegetables evaporates. Sprinkle with cheese and ham.
Add the remaining tablespoon of oil. Beat the eggs thoroughly and add them. Cook, stirring from the bottom, until the eggs start to set, about 1 minute. Cover closely and cook about 2 minutes.
Place a large round dish over the skillet and quickly invert both the skillet and the dish, letting the omelet fall into the dish. It should be golden brown on top.
Makes 4 servings.
HOT POTATO SALAD WITH WHITE WINE
16 red new potatoes, about 1 1/2 pounds
Salt to taste, if desired
1/3 cup corn, peanut or vegetable oil
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1/3 cup dry white wine at room temperature
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
Bring enough water to a boil to cover the potatoes when they are added. Add potatoes and salt. Bring to a boil and cook until the potatoes are tender but not mushy, about 20 minutes. Drain. While they are still hot, cut them into slices 1/4 inch thick. There should be about 5 1/2 cups.
Put the potato slices in a skillet or kettle and add the oil, shallots and parsley. Place the skillet on the stove and cook, stirring gently, about 1 minute. Add the wine, pepper and vinegar; stir. Serve.
Makes 4 servings.
