Today, we are diving into the world of old-fashioned fudge. I’m talking about the original version, which is created by cooking milk, sugar, and cocoa, then stirring in butter and vanilla and beating by hand. It’s the kind of fudge your grandmother probably made — indulgent and chocolaty, a festive confection prepared and shared by many around the holidays.
Many recipes for fudge that you see today use a combination of condensed milk and chocolate chips. This version is popular because the process and technique are simple, and the result is much less finicky. The recipe below is not this type of fudge.
Old-fashioned fudge is hard to make, mostly because, like all candy making, it takes practice to perfect. But fear not! I’m here to hold your hand through the whole process. Let’s get started with the basics.
Equipment
You don’t need much to make old-fashioned fudge.
- Large saucepan (4 quart or larger)
- 8-inch by 8-inch square baking dish
- Wooden spoon
- Candy thermometer
Anyone who tells you that a candy thermometer is not necessary has likely mastered the skill of fudge making. For a beginner, a candy thermometer is a must. There are lots of temperatures that the ingredients need to be heated and cooled to. Not following the temperature cues can cause an epic fudge fail.
Process
You start by preparing your pan. I always use parchment paper, but you can also line with foil or even grease really well with butter. Just make sure there’s a barrier so the fudge easily comes out of the pan once cooled.
Next, you mix the sugar and cocoa powder in a large saucepan. Once combined, stir in the milk, and cook over medium-low heat. When the mixture seems fluid, hook on your candy thermometer. If you put on your thermometer before adding ingredients, clumps of sugar and cocoa will probably get stuck behind it.
Stir the mixture constantly on medium-low heat until it starts to boil; this will happen around 210° F. Once it boils, you should stop stirring and wait, but don’t walk away! It will bubble and boil as it cooks. Once it hits 235° F, remove the pan from the heat. Add in the butter and the extract, but don’t stir them. Just let them rest with the mixture as it cools.
Once the mixture cools to 115° F, use your wooden spoon to stir in the butter and extract. Continue stirring, beating aggressively by hand for another 6 to 7 minutes. The fudge should start to thicken and lose its shine. Pay close attention to the consistency. If you don’t beat enough, your fudge will be soft. If you beat too much, it will become grainy and too hard.
Transfer it to your baking pan, and let it cool and set completely. This will take at least two hours. Remove from the pan and cut into small squares. Store fudge in the refrigerator.
Adding Flavors and Textures
You can mix up the flavor of fudge by swapping out the vanilla extract for a different extract such as orange, peppermint, or even almond. You can also add nuts to the fudge. Walnuts, pecans, pistachios, or cashews work well. Add up to one cup just before you finish beating the fudge and right before you add it to the pan. Make sure your nuts aren’t cold when adding. Cold nuts could change the temperature too quickly, and it won’t set right.
Old-Fashioned Fudge
Prep time: 20 minutes. Cook time: 55 to 65 minutes. Cool time: 2 hours. Yield: about 36 servings.
Ingredients
- 2½ cups sugar
- ½ cup cocoa powder (Dutch cocoa is preferred for the best flavor)
- 1¼ cups milk
- ¼ cup unsalted butter
- ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Instructions
- Line an 8-inch by 8-inch baking pan with parchment paper. Set aside.
- Place sugar and cocoa powder in a large saucepan. Whisk together, then whisk in milk. Once the mixture is fluid, add a candy thermometer onto the side of the pan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly until the mixture starts boiling (about 210° F). Continue cooking without stirring until a candy thermometer reads 235° F. (The mixture will bubble and foam during the cooking process; it will take about 25 minutes.)
- Remove from the heat and add in the butter and vanilla. (Do not stir the butter and vanilla; just let them melt into the mixture.) Let rest until the mixture cools to 115° F. This will take about 30 to 40 minutes. Stir aggressively with a hard spoon or spatula, beating until the butter and vanilla are incorporated and the mixture has lost some of its glossiness. This will take about 5 to 7 minutes.
- Transfer to the prepared pan and let cool completely at room temperature, about 2 hours. Cut into squares before serving.
Adrienne Blumthal is a formally trained pastry chef, recipe developer, and food stylist based in Chicago.
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