The pandemic wreaked havoc with everyone’s schedule. Exhibitions and conferences were not immune. After taking nearly two years off due to covid-19, the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) held its Suppliers’ Day in November 2021. Six months later, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day returned to the Javits Convention Center in New York City last month. Despite the quick turnaround, exhibitors and attendees were happy to be back.
According to organizers, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day included more than 7,800 in-person registrants. More than 300 registered for virtual events. There were 448 exhibiting companies and 123 new exhibitors.
I-On by Dr. Xi, just one of the indie beauty companies at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day
For those planning ahead, Suppliers’ Day 2023 returns to New York City, May 2 & 3.
But before turning the page on Suppliers’ Day 2022, here’s some of what we heard and saw by talking to dozens of suppliers on the show floor. Inclusive beauty concepts were on display and, of course, sustainability was a topic of conversation in every stand. For example, under the theme “Human. Nature,” BASF Care Creationshighlighted new inclusive and sustainable solutions for the personal care industry.
“Our topics resonated with a lot of people,” observed Marcelo Lu, SVP-BASF Care Chemicals North America. “Our products and messaging were on point.”
One of those messages involved the latest BASF data to support the textured hair consumer’s needs for conditioning, repair and styling, as well as new claims including detangling, strengthening and frizz management. BASF also had a lot of foot traffic for its new ZCote Sheer. This naturally derived dispersion provides ease of formulating and meets consumer standards for sensory perception. Its best-in-class transparency is demonstrated with sensory panel data on Fitzpatrick skin types I-V.
“The sun care category was really impacted by the pandemic. There is a lot of pent-up demand,” explained Lu. “They want innovation and new marketing claims. Our mineral filter that addresses inclusive beauty that doesn’t whiten skin is really on point.”
Also new from BASF is 87% natural Saxifraga Sarmentosa extract. It helps age-related and acne-related hyperpigmented skin return to its original natural color and overall hom*ogenous tone.
Natural was the word at Shin-Etsu Silicones, too. Lab Manager Janine Cherette detailed some of Shin-Etsu’s silicones with natural content, per ISO 16128. Specifically, Shin-Etsu offersseveral silicone products in natural diluents that allow cosmetic formulators to capitalize on the outstanding performance advantages of silicone products, while maximizing the natural content of their products.In fact, incorporating Shin-Etsu materials in their products can help formulators meet ISO 16128 standards, according to Cherette.
During Suppliers’ Day, Shin-Etsu highlighted an organic rich anhydrous stick balm and a pomade as examples of products using this technology. Specifically, Shin-Etsu is highlighting its X-22-6695B—self emulsifying elastomer gel in jojoba oil, X-25-7055—silicone elastomer gel in Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, and X-22-8365—film former in tridecane and undecane. In addition to having high organic content the Balm is PEG free.
“People understand the benefits of silicones. We’ve combined that benefit with plant oils to create effective products with high levels of naturals,” explained Cherette.
Finished formulas on display in the Shin-Etsu stand included portable bronzer sticks with 50% water content and a Moisture Surge Satin Lipstick that glides on easily and has a lightweight feel. Best of all, by combining plant oils with elastomer gels, Shin-Etsu enables formulators to create natural and efficacious products.
“All of our formulations at Suppliers’ Day are 92% natural origin or higher,” she said.
A Rebirth from Silab
The world is rising from the ashes of the pandemic. Silab captured that with its Phoenix Rebirth concept. As the company notes, the phoenix expresses the will for self-renewal, rejuvenation and the reliance on inner strength to face daily aggressions.
Consumer Product Testing President Craig Weiss provides insights during the IBA Regulatory & Compliance Update.
Using the phoenix for inspiration, Silab’s Phoenix Rebirth is a balance of skin regeneration that takes into account the vascular, immune and cutaneous systems. It includes new understanding of skin biology and a paradigm change in caring and protecting skin for particular age groups. For example, Exfoliactive is aimed at consumers ages 20-35. Derived from nopal flowers, Exfoliactive is said to boost the natural exfoliation capacity of the skin by stimulating the activities of desquamation enzymes. It promotes skin renewal and eliminates scales for an optimal cutaneous barrier function. It provides cosmetic benefits comparable to those of glycolic acid and salicylic acid, according to Silab.
Glyco-Repair is recommended for those 30-50 years of age. It acts on both the epidermis and the dermis for an overall repairing effect. It reactivates the natural mechanisms of epidermal and matrix regeneration, thereby enabling the renewal of cutaneous tissue to repair the skin.
Finally, Regenixir is targeted at those 51 and older. It is said to restructure the matrix and improve epidermal dynamics, reinforces the population of pro-regenerating macrophages and promotes the formation of a vascular network.
Biotech Beauty from IMCD
IMCD’s Biotech Beauty 2.0 is a new collection that explores its four pillars of biomimetics, artificial intelligence (AI), hybridization and sustainable solutions. Reducing water usage is a cornerstone of sustainability, noted company executives.
“When we talk about sustainability, we spend so much time focusing on the packaging,” observed Danielle Wheeler, technical and business development director, personal care. “But there are so many ways to improve the sustainability of a product by focusing on what’s inside the bottle.”
IMCD highlighted a portable water-free tablet that turns into a creamy cleanser when water is added. It all comes together in Crushing It Exfoliating Facial Cleanser. Another sustainable solution is a pectin film that dissolves into a foaming cleanser. It can replace polyvinyl alcohol-based films in many “sheet-type” applications.
Novel Ideas from Dow
For formulators tasked with creating sustainable and inclusive beauty products, Dow showcased several novel products—including bio-surfactants, non-GMO technologies and an upcycled silica powder—as well as a new Textured Hair Kit that was created with the help of Dow’s Global African Affinity Network (GAAN). GAAN’s role in the process helped Dow glean greater insight, according to company executives. The kit’s finished formulations include a waterless exfoliating scalp scrub that transforms into a deep cleaning, moisturizing shampoo with creamy foam upon adding water and Calm Your Scalp Tea Tree Serum, a daily-use treatment, described as a thick and creamy butter for curl definition and twisted styles.
These and other launches celebrate Dow’s longstanding commitment to deliver ground-breaking technology and address the ever-growing need for eco-friendly solutions, according to Verna Talcott, North America personal care regional manager and global personal care digital segment leader at Dow.
EcoSense SL-60 and EcoSense SL-60 HA surfactants are new bioderived and readily biodegradable sophorolipids that enable formulators to create mild cleansing products. Dowsil 1686 Resin is a non-GMO, non-animal original liquid silicone resin. It can be used in color cosmetics, skin care and hair care. It has a low carbon footprint as no heating or cooling is required.
Dow’s MaizeCare Clarity Polymer is a non-GMO corn-based ingredient that enables chemists the ability to create crystal-clear hair styling formulations while offering versality from low to high hair cation, consistent curl retention and compatibility with carbomer, according to Dow. It is bio-based and biodegradable with film-forming properties that provide a non-tacky feel.
New from Clariant Natural Ingredients
To reduce dark circles and under-eye bag formation, formulators can turn to the latest premium skin care active from Clariant Natural Ingredients. New Rootness Awake is an enriched extract of inflammation-fighting compounds obtained from sustainably-grown Ipomoea batatas (sweet potato) roots. It reduces discoloration and ensuring firmness, promoting a revitalized more youthful eye contour.
“Dark circles and puffiness accentuate a tired appearance and are common beauty concerns regardless of gender and age,” said Julie Droux, senior technical marketing specialist, Clariant Natural Ingredients. “Plant Milking Technology has enabled us to use an eco-friendly process to discover active molecules with potent properties in sweet potato roots, and to create an enriched extract with high efficacy in tackling many of the biological pathways responsible for alteration of the eye contour. Rootness Awake gives formulators unique opportunities to develop effective targeted care and eye contour products that contribute to progressing sustainability in skin care.”
Rootness Awake counters the fragility of the eye contour by focusing on key aspects: decreasing the release of inflammatory mediators, helping reduce the microvascular network, and ensuring skin thickness, integrity and firmness are strengthened. All of these combine to reduce under-eye pigmentation and edema (fluid build-up). It achieves this as a result of the high concentration of active compounds Dicaffeoylquinate esters. This component is ideal for anti-aging skin care.
For more on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, click here.
