Porcini mushrooms are one of our favorite fungi. Why? Because the earthy, rich-tasting mushrooms impart a pungent, woodsy flavor to any number of dishes, from risotto to soup. Also called cèpes, porcini are usually sold dried in the United States, but may be available fresh in late spring or in the fall at some farmers' markets. Dried porcini have a much more concentrated flavor than fresh, and are usually sliced before being dried. Dried porcini can sometimes be substituted for fresh, particularly in risotto or soup, where the size of the mushroom does not matter. But because of the difference in flavor concentration, fresh porcini can rarely be substituted for dried.
How to Buy
Look for fresh porcini with large caps (about six inches in diameter). The caps should be firm, with no nicks, cuts, or black spots, and have pale undersides.
When buying dried porcini, look for mushrooms that range from tan to pale brown. Avoid bags of dried porcini that contain lots of crumbled bits.
How to Use
Dried porcini usually need to be soaked in hot water for 20 to 30 minutes before they are used.
How to Store
Keep dried porcini in an airtight container in a cool, dark place up to six months. Store fresh unwashed porcini in a paper bag in the refrigerator for up to three days.
