Shrub | Evergreen, Flowering, Pruning (2024)

FAQs

Shrub | Evergreen, Flowering, Pruning? ›

If the shrub is thin or lanky, encourage new growth by trimming individual branches back by no more than one-quarter their length. Cut just above a node, which looks like a small bump on the stem where new growth will appear. The best time to prune is right after the plant flowers.

Spring flowering shrubs (those that bloom before mid-June) should be pruned after flowering. Their flower buds develop during the previous growing season on “old wood." If pruned too early, you will remove the flower buds.

Follow the 1/3 rule

When making pruning decisions, keep in mind that you can safely remove up to one-third of the plant's growth at any one time. There may be times when you prune more, such as when you are rejuvenating an overgrown shrub, but generally speaking, the “one-third rule” is the best guideline to follow.

You'll need to water most shrubs regularly for the first year after planting, if there's insufficient rainfall, so also think about how far they'll be planted from a source of water. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are efficient watering methods.

Avoid pruning shrubs in winter that will bloom in spring.

Those buds live through the winter, ready to open in spring. If you prune these plants in winter, you'll be cutting off flower buds. (The saying is that these shrubs “flower on old wood,” meaning on twigs that grew the previous year.)

Best Time for Shrub Pruning

Trim shrubs in the summer as soon as possible after flowering to favor as many of next year's flower buds as possible. The later into the summer pruning is done, the more gentle it should be to preserve as many flower buds as possible.

Pruning During The Flowering Stage

It is important to remove damaged or dying leaves and buds from the plant so the healthy leaves can do their job. Many cultivators choose to trim the leaves from the plants for only the first two weeks of the flowering stage to allow for appropriate bud maturation.

Cutting off all the stems and leaves is a huge stressor to the plant so it's best not to do it too often. Stressed shrubs are more susceptible to disease and pests plus, when cut back too frequently, the shrub may become too weak to fully recover.

After “how?", the second most-asked question we get about pruning is “when?” (Or, "Can I prune this now?") The rule of thumb is to prune immediately after bloom for flowering shrubs, in late winter or early spring for non-blooming shrubs (particularly for heavy pruning), and not after mid-August for any shrubs.

Don't remove more than one-third of the shrub's branches at any one time. This preserves enough foliage that the plant can make sufficient food (through photosynthesis) to stay robust and generate new growth quickly.

Do you deadhead shrubs? ›

This deadheading isn't completely necessary for the health of your plant; it is mainly for the purpose of encouraging growth. Once the shrub gets to an appropriate size, you can stop this task (unless you want to continue for cosmetic reasons).

Epsom salt has long been known as a wonderful garden supplement, helping to create lush grass, full roses and healthy, vibrant greenery. It is considered a gardener's secret ingredient to lovely, lush gardens, trees and lawns.

In general, begin pruning after the first display of flowers and stop pruning at the end of the plant's growing season, especially perennials. The closer you prune perennials to bloom time, the more likely there will be a delay in blooms.

ALWAYS prune back to or just above a growing point (branch or bud) or to the soil line. NEVER leave a stem or branch stub. NEVER top a tree to “rejuvenate” growth.

When the sap is flowing

Sap is the lifeblood of a plant, so if you make a cut when it's coursing through the stem of a tree or shrub (early spring for many plants), you're essentially opening a wound. This wound can keep bleeding, sucking the life out of a branch or even the entire plant.

If pruning is needed, do so immediately after flowering to shape or maintain compactness. Plants spread by suckering and if width needs to be reduced, remove outer suckers as they emerge. Seed pods often hang on plants through the winter.