Voivedich Family Oyster Dressing recipe: Sharing, so it won't be lost forever (2024)

New Orleans French bread, Louisiana oysters and creamy butter: What could go wrong? Not much when making the simple and flavorful Voivedich Family's Oyster Dressing.

"My mother-in-law taught me how to make it," Suzanne Lamonte wrote to me in response to my request for readers to share a treasured recipe that I would then make and deliver to the reader.

On a chilly afternoon, I arrived at Suzanne and Joey Lamonte's Hammond home with my casserole and found Suzanne had made her version, so we could compare.

As we sat around the island in the Lamonte's kitchen to sample and chat, I found her version tender and buttery. And, I soon realized where I'd a few made missteps: I crushed the French bread too finely, over-worked the bread and oysters when I stirred it together and did not add enough stock.

Suzanne and her husband said my version tasted just right. And, I agree that the flavors of the two were very close, but Suzanne's was lighter, fluffier and moister. She was clearly the seasoned hand with this dish.

The key, Lamonte said, is to gently tosses the bread crumbs, seasoning and oysters together beforeaddingjust enough oyster liquid and stock so that, while not soupy, the dressing is very moist.

What the Lamontes love about the dressings is that the oyster flavor is what you taste first.

"I even considered using it at Middendorf's Restaurant in Manchac at one time," Lamonte said. "I am the thirdgeneration of the family that owned Middendorf's from 1934, and I sold the restaurant to Horst and Karen Pfeiffer in 2007." (Read more about the restaurant's history here.)

Lamonte does not consider herself a gourmet cook: "At Middendorf's, all I needed to do was to keep the catfish and seafood fresh and consistent."

Still, she said, it's obvious she loves to cook and share food in her homey, spacious kitchen. Also, she clearly understands the value of handing down time-tested and beloved recipes.

"I am the only one in the family that makes it anymore since most of my husband's family has passed away," she said. Lamonte learned the recipe from her husband's mother, Abigail Voivedich Lamonte, who learned it from her mother, Abigail Bing Voivedich, who learned it from her mother-in-law, Margaret Wells Voivedich.

"It's just a good recipe and it'll get lost, it'll get lost," Lamonte lamented.

"This recipe has been in my husband's family for at least 100 years and originated when his familyimmigrated to Biloxi from Croatia to work the oyster beds there. The family then moved to New Orleans in the 1930s and to Hammond, La., in the 50s.

"It's the best way to showcase the singular and simple flavor of plump Louisiana oysters," she said. "There's no over-reliance of spices and pepper. The recipe just knocks your socks off with just therichness of the oysters alone. Heat and spices can be added, but they are not needed."

Her mother-in-law was not an adventurous cook, but "what she did, she perfected," Lamonte said.

"She followed recipes to a T," Joey added.

"I am using a small batch recipe," Lamonte wrote to me when she submitted the recipe, "but at one time my mother-in-law used 10 dozen oysters and 20 loaves of French bread for a single dinner!"

Lamonte stressed that the French bread -- she prefers Leidenheimer -- must be stale and bone dry to soak as much oyster liquid as possible. (I cut mine up and put it in the oven for a few minutes to ensure that it was dry enough.)

She combines the bread crumbs, oysters and seasoning and gently tosses it with her hands to mix. Then, she adds the egg and gradually adds the liquid.

"Once you get it too wet, you can't take it out," she said.

The oysters, bread, stock and butter all have salt in them, so Lamonte does not add additional salt, without testing. To check for saltiness, she places a small amount of dressing in cup and microwaves it until cooked. Then, she tastes and, if needed, adds salt.

The dressing should be light, bubbly and just a little puffed up when done, Lamonte said. To reheat, portion dressing into a serving and microwave for about 20 seconds.

Voivedich Family Oyster Dressing recipe

Serves about 10 to 12

1 loaf New Orleans-style French bread, stale, cut into cubes

2 pints large Louisiana oysters plus reserved liquor

1 cup small diced celery

1/2 cup green onion, sliced and chopped fine

1/4 cup finely mincedparsley

1/2 cup butter (1 stick)

2 eggs, beaten

8-12 ounces chicken stock, low sodium, as needed

Salt, if needed

White pepper, to taste

Sprinkle bread crumbs on top, if desired

Place stale bread cubes in a food processor and pulse lightly once or twice to break up bread, but retain bite-size pieces. Place bread in large mixing bowl.

Pour whole oysters and liquid into large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook until oysters are justslightly curled. Immediately spoon oysters in bowl with bread and lightly toss. Reserve liquid.

Return skillet to heat and melt butter. Saute celery until just translucent. Add green onions and parsley and cook for another minute. Add seasoning to bread and oysters.

Gently add beaten eggs and stir until just mixed.

Check for moistness and add oyster liquid as needed. Then, add stock to moisten as needed. The amount of stock will vary depending on how much oyster liquid is available. Breading should be soaked through and wet with no dry spots.

Place dressing in buttered casserole dish. And cover lightly with foil. Sprinkle bread crumbs on top, if desired.

Bake in a 350-degree oven until light andbubbling, about 1 hour and 15 minutes to 1-1/2 hours. Check at 1 hour to ensure it does not over-bake. For final 5 or 10 minutes, remove foil and brown top of dressing.

***

I also visited Vivian Solares in Harahan, carrying a batch of her mother Vivian Morlas Schoenfeld's Christmas fudge. (See below.)

Danielle Stallworth in New Orleans invited me into her home, so I could share my version of Grandmommie's corn pudding. (See below).

I received so many great recipes and stories from readers and chefs around town that I may make this an occasional series in 2017. If you have a recipe and story to share, please send me a note at amaloney@nola.com. If you send the recipe, a bit of background and a photo, even if I cannot make the dish and deliver it to you, I can still share it with other New Orleans cooks.