Understanding Pottery Glazes (2024)

GLAZE RECIPES

Glaze recipes are typically expressed by listing each raw material and its % by weight. The percentages add up to 100 Usually colorants and sometimes other additives (such as bentonite for suspension) are not included in the 100%, they are added on afterward.

EXAMPLE: CONE 6 CLEAR BASE GLAZE

  • Wallastonite 10%
  • FRIT 3134 30%
  • Kaolin 25%
  • Flint 15%
  • F-4 Feldspar 20%
  • Total 100%
  • Add 4% cobalt oxide for a deep blue

To mix this glaze, you take the total number of grams of dry material you are making, multiply by the % to get the grams of each material to add.

EXAMPLE: TO MAKE 1000G OF GLAZE

  • Wallastonite = 10/100*1000=100 grams

  • FRIT 3134=30/100*1000=300 grams

  • Kaolin = 25/100*1000=250 grams

  • Flint = 15/100*1000 = 150 grams

  • F-4 Feldspar = 20/100*1000 = 200 grams

  • To double check, add up all the grams and make sure they equal 1000.

  • Then add 4/100*1000 = 40 grams cobalt oxide

This is as far as many people go. They make the glaze, test it, and often are unhappy with the results. So let’s go further and understand why.

GLACE COMPOSITION

Every glaze is made of the following 3 materials:

Plus a glaze may include one or more additives:

  • Opacifiers – to make the glaze opaque instead of transparent. Examples: tin oxide, zirconium or Zircopax, titanium, zinc

  • Suspenders – to keep the glaze in suspension instead of settling out. Examples: bentonite

  • Colorants – to provide various colors. Examples: cobalt oxide, copper oxide

To make a glaze, we need to find sources of each of the above which are convenient to use, in a form that does not dissolve in water. As we saw in the last tip (#34), glaze materials can be broken down into their chemical compositions, and from there we can see what the effect of each material will be.

To provide silica in the glaze, we need a material than contains: SiO2=Silicon Dioxide, comes from flint, quartz and pure silica

To provide alumina in the glaze, we need a material that contains: Al2O3=Aluminum Oxide, comes from feldspar, cryolite, clay

FLUXES

Silica and alumina would create a glaze if fired hot enough. However, ceramic kilns are do not reach the temperatures required. Therefore, we need to add fluxes, which lower the melting point.

To provide flux in the glaze, we need a material that contains one or more of the following:

  • Li2O=Lithium Oxide, comes from Lithium carbonate, Petalite, Spudomene

  • K2O=Potassium Oxide; comes from Potash Feldspar, frit

  • CaO=Calcium Oxide, comes from whiting, limestone, wollastonite (also provides SiO2), wood ash, bone ash, dolomite (also provides MgO)

  • MgO=Magnesium Oxide, comes from magnesium carbonate, dolomite (also provides CaO), talc

  • ZnO=Zinc Oxide, comes from zinc oxide

  • SrO=Strontium Oxide, comes from strontium carbonate

  • BaO=Barium Oxide, comes from barium carbonate

  • PbO=Lead Oxide (not used much due to toxicity)

  • Na2O=Sodium Oxide, comes from feldspar, FRIT, cryolite, nepheline syenite

  • TiO2=Titanium Dioxide, comes from pure titania, rutile

  • ZrO2=Zirconium Dioxide, comes from zirconium dioxide, zircopax, zirconium silicate

  • SnO2=Tin Oxide, comes from stannic oxide (SnO2 white), stannous oxide (SnO black)

  • B2O3=Boric Acid or Boron, comes from Colmanite, Gerstley Borate, CadyCal. Effective for lowering the melting point of a glaze.

Now don’t panic! This isn’t chemistry class, and you don’t have to memorize this list! But if you’ve worked with glaze recipes at all, you probably recognize many of these terms, and can start to understand what they are used for.

You can take any glaze recipe, and break each ingredient down into it’s chemical composition as shown last week. An easy way to do this is by looking up the material in the DigitalFire database.http://www.ceramicsearch.com/material/

Once you have the chemical composition of the ingredient, you can see what it contributes to the glaze. For example, is it primarily contributing silica, alumina, or a flux? Often a single ingredient contributes a combination of these. For example, Feldspar is primarily a combination of alumina and silica. And so is clay.

Glazes need a balance of the 3 main ingredients: Silica, Alumina and Flux.

  • Too much flux causes a glaze to run, and tends to create variable texture on the surface. The texture may vary from shiny, where the glass is balanced, to matte where the excessive flux oxides may form visible, possibly lumpy, crystals.

  • Too much silica will create a stiff, white and densely opaque glass with an uneven surface. It will be glossy in spots, but the suspended silica can form crystals producing harsh dry surfaces. Too much silica will also inhibit the melting of a glaze, and the resulting surface will be roughly textured like sandpaper.

  • Too much alumina causes a glaze to stiffen and tend towards opacity, again with a textured surface where it is dry in spots. Glazes will often have pinhole defects. Too much alumina can inhibit the melting of the glaze to the extent that a poor quality matte glaze results, one that looks matte but is prone to discoloration.

SO HOW DOES THIS HELP YOU?

By understanding what different materials do, you can adjust a glaze recipe to change its characteristics or fix its problems. For example, you can make a transparent glaze into a matt glaze. You can stop crawling, pinholing, or crazing. You can lower the melting temperature of a glaze. You can make a substitution if you run out of an ingredient. This ability completely changes the way you work with glazes.

UNITY FORMULA AND GLAZE CALCULATION PROGRAMS

You may have heard of something called a unity formula, or Seger formula. This is a way of expressing a glaze by the ratios of its oxides rather than % of raw materials. It is one of the primary methods used in analyzing glazes. I’m going to skip the detailed math. But the concept is that using information about each raw material, you create a ratio of the amount of flux to the amount of silica and alumina. These ratios can then be compared to ones which have been determined to work in a certain way at a specific temperature.

These calculations are very detailed and take a long time to do by hand. And because there are many factors that all interact, it would take a long time to learn each material and the effect it has on a glaze. So potters have created a variety of computer programs that simplify the analysis and formulation of glazes.

You can learn more by taking the self paced on-line tutorial called Glaze Teach.http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/GlazeTeach/Index.htmThe writers of this tutorial offer a glaze calculation software program called Matrix.

Or visit DigitalFirehttp://www.digitalfire.com, a website that explains glaze chemistry and sells a software program called Insight to help automate this glaze analysis process.

So, if this whole thing looks interesting to you, you will probably want to explore the world of glaze chemistry more. On the other hand, if it makes your eyes glaze over (no pun intended), you probably should stick to commercial glazes or trial and error. Happy glazing!

(note, the numbers in the above chemical formulas would properly be expressed as subscripts)

Browse our huge selection ofglazes.

copyright 2001, www.bigceramicstore.com

Understanding Pottery Glazes (2024)

FAQs

What are 3 rules when working with glaze in ceramics? ›

Do not interchange eating and glazing utensils. Scrub your hands thoroughly after glazing. Use a Ceramic dust filter mask that fits well when mixing, spraying, or sanding glazes.

How to know what glaze to use? ›

There are a number of factors that you'll need to consider when choosing your pottery glaze. You'll need to know what you are using your final piece for, how you are going to fire it, what type of heat you are going to need and what type of finish you are going to want.

What are the 5 basic components of glaze? ›

Pottery glaze is made up of five basic components. These components are silica, alumina, flux, colorants and modifiers. Even though all glazes are made up of the same components, there is a vast range of colors and types to choose from.

What is one thing you need to remember when glazing your pottery? ›

To start, apply glaze to the tip of a soft brush and then paint your pottery however you want! It's important to remember to only pick up a small amount of glaze each time you need more. If your brush is overloaded, it won't give you the texture that you're looking for as you paint.

Why should you never glaze the bottom of your ceramic piece? ›

If you get glaze on the bottom of your pots and fire them they will stick to the kiln shelf which could result in a lot of damage to your shelf and will ruin the pot you just spent a lot of time on.

How many coats of glaze do you put on your pottery? ›

Typically, three coats are applied. Each dries slowly, hardening as it does so (the glazes contain binders). This provides a stable base for the next one.

How long should glaze dry before firing? ›

Glazes generally need between 1-7 days for thorough drying before firing, depending on several variables: Thickness of the glaze coating: A thicker glaze requires a longer drying time. Humidity and temperature: High humidity and low temperature decelerate evaporation.

Can you glaze pottery without a kiln? ›

The simplest way to glaze pottery without a kiln is to apply acrylic paint as you would ceramic glaze. Acrylic paint comes in an incredible array of shades and hues, dries quickly and cleans up easily with water. You can use the same application process for glazing pottery with acrylic paint as for ceramic glaze.

Can you glaze over already glazed ceramics? ›

You don't have to sand all the glaze off. Just enough for the new glaze to adhere to the old glaze. Heat – Heat up your piece with a heat gun, or microwave for 30 seconds, or even in the oven. Then apply your glaze.

Can you glaze the bottom of pottery? ›

It is important that the bottom of each piece be glaze-free, because any glaze on the bottom of the piece will melt in the kiln and fuse your piece to the shelf. After you have finished glazing it is important to check the bottom of each piece. If there is any glaze, use a damp sponge to wipe it off.

Should you wet pottery before glazing? ›

The two troublemakers involved with glaze application are water and gravity. When a bisque pot becomes too saturated with water, it won't accept glaze correctly, so use the least amount of water possible when glazing, including when you are making corrections.

What are the 3 steps to glazing? ›

Glazing pottery is super simple.
  1. Step 1: Bisque-fire your piece. Clay needs to be fired before it's glazed. ...
  2. Step 2: Prepare your piece for glazing. This is the stage where you wax or put the masking tapes on the parts you don't want to glaze. ...
  3. Step 3: Glaze your piece. ...
  4. Step 4: Fire your piece.

What is the 3 pull rule ceramics? ›

The 3-pull rule is simple: the majority of your form should be pulled up in just 3 pulls. This does not include shaping, which requires a separate effort. Begin by centering and opening the clay, then as soon as you start pulling up, aim to move as much clay as possible in the first three pulls.

What are three techniques in applying glazes? ›

Glazes are a liquid suspension of finely ground minerals that are applied onto the surface of bisque-fired ceramic ware by brushing, pouring, or dipping. After the glaze dries, the ware is loaded into a kiln and fired to the temperature at which the glaze ingredients will melt together to form a glassy surface.

What are 3 reasons for glazing pottery? ›

It is used for decoration, to ensure the item is impermeable to liquids and to minimise the adherence of pollutants. Glazing renders earthenware impermeable to water, sealing the inherent porosity of earthenware. It also gives a tougher surface. Glaze is also used on stoneware and porcelain.

References

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